The Mexican food scene in Hong Kong hardly compares to that of Los Angeles or even New York, but through vibrant taquerias, soulful cantinas and a handful of dedicated chefs, the city cuts a flavourful slice of what one can find in Mexico. One such chef is El Taquero’s Alejandro Ramírez Pérez, a Mexico City native whose passion for Mexican cuisine was nurtured in the heart of the home. “I loved to help my grandmother when she was in the kitchen—either flipping the handmade tortillas from the open fire or watching my grandfather cook at home. I can remember his big hands chopping the onions and parsley to make his famous beef tartare,” he shares. “My grandfather Santos was a remarkable fine dining waiter. He used to serve the President of Mexico in Los Pinos, very old school, making beef tartare, Caesar salad at the guéridon in front of his guests. He loved cooking and he always showed a lot of passion.”
“I remember we used to visit him at Capulhuac, a small town near Toluca. I loved the fresh baked barbacoa wrapped in maguey leaves and served together with a hot bowl of its own jus. Some of my most cheerful memories are walking into the huge kitchen of his house and finding my grandmother and my aunties cooking breakfast. Fresh eggs, black beans and local chorizo with delicious handmade tortillas. My [other] grandfather Tavo used to drive trains back in the days, and he always brought all kind of rare ingredients home: “chapulines” from Oaxaca, “gusanos de maguey” from Hidalgo, “escamoles” (ant eggs). All of them are delicacies in Mexican gastronomy.”
Pérez later attended one of the best culinary schools in the country, Universidad del Claustro de Sor Juana. It was a place that played an instrumental role in shaping the kind of chef he is today—one guided by an earnest sense of patriotism. “Sor Juana Ines de la Cruz, one of our greatest poets, studied there during the XVII century. So having the opportunity to study there makes you conscious about our roots, about our culture, the richness of our traditions and I believe that all of this inspires the dishes I cook every day.”
Today, his love for Mexican cooking continues to be nurtured by love, family and the very city he grew up in. “Mexico City is magical, it’s full of history. As a Mexican I learned the importance of food; a huge part of our daily life [revolves] around it. From 5am you will smell fresh Mexican bread baking across the city. The iconic mobile stalls of the “tamales” vendors are full of steam, together with hot “atole” (usually mornings in Mexico City are cold). Passing by the Central de Abastos, the movement of trucks loaded with fresh vegetables and fruits being distributed [across] city is like a wild jungle. In the afternoon, the city is colourful, the streets are full of markets, and small local food business. In the evening the dining scene is remarkable: night markets, snacks, tacos, and big restaurants.”
Since leaving the country, Pérez makes the long flight back to Mexico City about once every two years. Family is first, therefore much of his time is spent with his parents, sister, niece and aunties. These gatherings are typically organised at home with a celebratory barbecue, but if Pérez is heading into town, you best believe he’ll be checking in for a meal at these five places below.
El Cardenal
One of my all-time favourites at Mexico City is El Cardenal. Nowadays they have a few branches, but I really love to visit the original in the downtown. Located at Calle Palma is a huge venue of 3 floors where they do breakfast and lunch. Traditional Mexican cuisine is well executed; I love to order the Tortilla de huevo con escamoles (egg omelet with ant eggs), hot chocolate and homemade breads, and Espaldilla de Cordero en barbacoa (barbecue-style beef chuck).”
Palma 23, Colonia Centro, Cuauhtémoc, 06000, CDMX; restauranteelcardenal.com
Cuchilleros
My second recommendation would be a Mexican cantina named Cuchilleros. It’s a great place with amazing food; they have live music like mariachi or boleros. Classic drinks and terrific service. I love to go there to celebrate birthdays or just family gatherings. I can recommend from here the Pecho de ternera al horno (baked veal brisket), Carne tartara (beef tartare), and Lengua de res (beef tongue).
Madrid 17, Cuauhtémoc, 06030, CDMX; cuchilleroscantina.com
Churrería El Moro
The next place brings me to my childhood; its name is El Moro. It’s a traditional churreria, located in the downtown. My parents used to bring me to this place when I was a kid. You must try their churros, hot chocolate “especial” and hot chocolate “oaxaqueno”.
Eje Central Lázaro Cárdenas 42, Centro Histórico, CDMX; elmoro.mx
El Vilsito
A taqueria which is a must in Mexico City, “El Vilsito”. It’s a mechanic workshop and a taqueria. They ensemble three or even four huge Al Pastor trompos at the same time, just on the sidewalk. It’s magical. I recommend trying Al pastor tacos, Volcan de arrachera (crispy tortilla with melted cheese and grilled meat), and Torta de pastor (sandwich with al pastor meat).
Av. Universidad 248, Narvarte, Benito Juárez, 03020, CDMX
Bósforo
Finally, Bósforo a mezcaleria located in the Historic Center of Mexico City. They offer a large variety of mezcales from all over Mexico. It is a large bar made of volcanic stone where you can try snacks traditionally from Oaxaca. The charm of this place is that you might not find the same mezcal you tried the last time you visit. If you’re lucky try the Mezcal Real Minero, Guacamole con miltomate y chapulines (guacamole with tomatoes and roasted grasshoppers), and Puntas de mezcal.
Luis Moya 31-local 2, Colonia Centro, Centro, Cuauhtémoc, 06010, CDMX
